This application was filed under 35 U.S.C. xc2xa7371 based on International Application Number PCT/FR98/01315, filed Jun. 23, 1998, which claimed priority to French Patent Application FR 97/08,346, filed Jul. 2, 1997.
The present invention relates to washing and conditioning compositions for keratin substances, in particular the hair and/or the skin, based on silicone, on surfactant and on a hydrophobic galactomannan gum, as well as to washing and conditioning processes using these compositions.
Compositions for washing keratin substances, in particular shampoos, are well known in the state of the art. It has already been proposed in the past to use silicones (conditioners) in such compositions in order to give the treated substances, in particular the hair, good cosmetic properties such as softness, sheen and easy disentangling.
Given the insoluble nature of the silicones which can be used in washing and conditioning compositions, it is desirable to keep the silicones in uniform dispersion in the medium without, however, causing the viscosity to fall or reducing the compositions"" detergent and foaming properties. The silicones must also be conveyed onto the keratin substances treated in order to give these substances, once the silicones have been applied, properties of softness, sheen and disentangling.
Few means exist at the present time for effectively maintaining insoluble silicones in suspension, since this is a difficult problem to solve; in this regard, it has already been proposed to use long-chain ester derivatives (pearlescent agents) or polysaccharides such as xanthan gum (gelling agents). However, pearlescent agents have crystallization problems which entail a change (increase) in the viscosity of the compositions over time; gelling agents also have drawbacks, namely, on the one hand, that the foam of detergent compositions containing xanthan gum is difficult to develop (poor initiation of foaming), and that, on the other hand, the compositions do not have a smooth texture and flow in blobs, which users do not find particularly agreeable.
The Applicant has discovered, and this forms the subject of the invention, that by using at least one hydrophobic galactomannan gum in washing compositions based on insoluble silicones and on surfactants, it was possible to obtain compositions with very good homogeneity and improved stability, as well as a viscosity which is satisfactory for application to keratin substances.
The compositions thus prepared also have good detergent and foaming properties and give keratin substances, in particular the hair and/or the skin, great softness.
When they are applied to the hair, in addition to their washing properties, these compositions have hair conditioning properties, i.e. treated hair is shiny, disentangles easily, feels soft, and has volume. The hair has a natural appearance and is not lank.
The compositions according to the invention are stable: in particular, no release of silicone or uncontrolled thickening of the composition over time takes place. Finally, the compositions have a soft, non-runny texture. The lather is airy and rinses out easily.
The subject of the invention is thus novel washing and conditioning compositions based on silicone, on surfactants and on hydrophobic galactomannan gum described below.
Another subject of the invention consists of the washing and conditioning process using such compositions.
The subject of the invention is also the use of a hydrophobic galactomannan gum as an agent for suspending a silicone in a washing and conditioning composition containing surfactants in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium.
Other subjects of the invention will become apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.
The compositions for washing and conditioning keratin substances, in particular the hair and the skin, in accordance with the invention comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one silicone, at least one surfactant with detergent properties and at least one hydrophobic galactomannan gum.
Galactomannans are polysaccharides mainly composed of galactose and mannose units. The main source of galactomannans is the endosperms of certain seeds of legumes such as guar, carob, etc. The galactomannans are preferably chosen from guar gums.
The galactomannan gums which can be used according to the invention may be soluble or insoluble in the compositions, but are preferably insoluble.
The expression xe2x80x9cdegree of substitutionxe2x80x9d means the average number of substituted hydroxyl groups on each anhydroglycoside unit of the galactomannan.
The expression xe2x80x9cmolar substitutionxe2x80x9d means the average number of moles of substituents on each anhydroglycoside unit of the galactomannan.
According to the invention, the expression xe2x80x9chydrophobic galactomannan gumsxe2x80x9d defines galactomannan gums which contain hydrophobic substituents.
Preferably, these galactomannan gums according to the invention contain hydrophilic substituents and hydrophobic substituents.
The galactomannans according to the invention preferably have a total molar substitution of greater than 0.7 and comprise from 0.7 to 4 hydrophilic substituents and from 0.0001 to 0.02 hydrophobic substituents per anhydroglycoside unit. The molar ratio of the hydrophilic substituents/hydrophobic substituents is preferably between 35:1 and 40,000:1.
According to the invention, the hydrophilic substituents can be chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl and carboxymethyl groups and amino and carboxylic groups.
According to the invention, the hydrophobic substituents can be chosen from linear or branched alkyls and alkenyls containing from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and the alkyl or alkenyl groups can be substituted with one or more hydroxyls.
The hydrophilic and hydrophobic substituents can either be linked directly via a carbon-carbon bond to the anhydroglycoside unit, or can be linked via an ether, urethane, ester, amide or acyl bond and preferably via an ether bond.
More particularly, the galactomannans according to the invention have a total molar substitution ranging from 0.9 to 2.01 and comprise from 0.9 to 2 hydrophilic substituents and from 0.0005 to 0.01 hydrophobic substituents per anhydroglycoside unit. The molar ratio of the hydrophilic substituents/hydrophobic substituents is between 90:1 and 4000:1.
More particularly, the hydrophilic substituent is the hydroxypropyl group and the hydrophobic substituent is a linear alkyl containing from 16 to 28 carbon atoms or a mixture of such alkyls, optionally linked to the anhydroglycoside units via an ether bond and comprising a hydroxyl group.
These compounds can be prepared according to the process described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,960,876 and 4,870,167.
Hydrophobic galactomannan gums which can be used in the context of the present invention are, in particular, guar gums sold under the name Esaflor HM 22 by the company Lamberti or under the name Jaguar XC 95-3 by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc.
The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition and can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
The organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll""s xe2x80x9cChemistry and Technology of Siliconesxe2x80x9d (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
If volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60xc2x0 C. and 260xc2x0 C., and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name xe2x80x9cVolatile Silicone 7207xe2x80x9d by Union Carbide or xe2x80x9cSilbione 70045 V 2xe2x80x9d by Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name xe2x80x9cVolatile Silicone 7158xe2x80x9d by Union Carbide, and xe2x80x9cSilbione 70045 V 5xe2x80x9d by Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxanes/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as xe2x80x9cVolatile Silicone FZ 3109xe2x80x9d sold by the company Union Carbide, with the chemical structure: 
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1xe2x80x2-bis(2,2,2xe2x80x2,2xe2x80x2,3,3xe2x80x2-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xc3x9710xe2x88x926 m2/s at 25xc2x0 C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name xe2x80x9cSH 200xe2x80x9d by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd and Byers xe2x80x9cVolatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmeticsxe2x80x9d.
Non-volatile silicones, and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity of from 5xc3x9710xe2x88x926 to 2.5 m2/s at 25xc2x0 C. and preferably 1xc3x9710xe2x88x925 to 1 m2/s.
Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
the Silbione oils of the series 47 and 70 047 or the Mirasil oils sold by Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc;
the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst;
the Viscasil oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc.
In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names xe2x80x9cAbil Wax 9800 and 9801xe2x80x9d by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-C20)alkylsiloxanes.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1xc3x9710xe2x88x925 to 5xc3x9710xe2x88x922 m2/s at 25xc2x0 C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products sold under the following names:
the Silbione oils of the 70 641 series from Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc;
the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc;
the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;
certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
The silicone gums which can be used in accordance with the invention are, in particular, polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made more particularly of the following products:
polydimethylsiloxane
polydimethylsiloxanes/methylvinylsiloxane gums,
polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylmethylsiloxane,
polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane,
polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane.
Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain (referred to as dimethiconol according to the nomenclature in the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (referred to as cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature in the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;
mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500,000, dissolved in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;
mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, having a viscosity of 20 m2/s, and an oil SF 96, with a viscosity of 5xc3x9710xe2x88x926 m2/s. This product preferably contains 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.
The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2SiO2/2, R3SiO1/2, RSiO3/2 and SiO4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon-based group having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those particularly preferred are the ones in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl radical, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cDow Corning 593xe2x80x9d or those sold under the names xe2x80x9cSilicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267xe2x80x9d by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and containing in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes containing:
polyethylenoxy and/or polypropylenoxy groups optionally containing C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide and the (C12)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee, or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amine groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
thiol groups such as the products sold under the names xe2x80x9cGP 72 Axe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cGP 71xe2x80x9d from Genesee;
alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cSilicone Copolymer F-755xe2x80x9d by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;
hydroxyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR-A-85/16334 corresponding to formula (V): 
xe2x80x83in which the radicals R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from methyl and phenyl radicals; at least 60 mol % of the radicals R3 denoting methyl; the radical Rxe2x80x23 is a divalent C2-C18 hydrocarbon-based alkylene chain unit; p is between 1 and 30 inclusive; q is between 1 and 150 inclusive;
acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in French patent application FR-A-2 641 185 and corresponding to formula (VI): 
xe2x80x83in which:
R4 denotes a methyl, phenyl, xe2x80x94OCOR5 or hydroxyl group, only one of which radicals R4 per silicon atom may be OH;
Rxe2x80x24 denotes methyl, phenyl; at least 60 mol % of all of the radicals R4 and Rxe2x80x24 denoting methyl;
R5 denotes C8-C20 alkyl or alkenyl;
Rxe2x80x3 denotes a linear or branched, divalent C2-C18 hydrocarbon-based alkylene radical;
r is between 1 and 120 inclusive;
p is between 1 and 30;
q is equal to 0 or is less than 0.5 p, p+q being between 1 and 30; the polyorganosiloxanes of formula (VI) can contain groups: 
xe2x80x83in proportions not exceeding 15% of the sum p+q+r.
The compounds of formula (VI) can be prepared by esterification of polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function of formula (V) above.
anionic groups of carboxylic type, such as, for example, in the products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company Chisso Corporation, or of alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulphonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulphate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names xe2x80x9cAbil S201xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cAbil S255xe2x80x9d.
hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.
According to the invention, silicones can also be used comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto the said main chain. These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-412,704, EP-A-412,707, EP-A-640,105, WO 95/00578, EP-A-582,152 and WO 93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037. These polymers are preferably anionic or nonionic.
Such polymers are, for example, copolymers which can be obtained by radical polymerization starting with a monomer mixture consisting of:
a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;
b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid;
c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula: 
xe2x80x83with v being a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of polyalkyl (meth)acrylate type and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, polymer units of polyisobutyl (meth)acrylate type.
According to the invention, all of the silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions.
The polyorganosiloxanes which are particularly preferred in accordance with the invention are:
nonvolatile silicones chosen from the family of polyalkylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups, such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m2/s at 25xc2x0 C., such as the oils of the series DC200 from Dow Corning, in particular that with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst, of the series Silbione 70047 and 47 and more particularly the oil 70 047 V 500,000, which are sold by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc, polyalkylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, such as dimethiconol, or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as the oil Silbione 70641 V 200 sold by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc;
mixtures of organopolysiloxanes and of cyclic silicones, such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning, and the product SF 1214 sold by the company General Electric;
mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, in particular of a gum and an oil, such as the product SF 1236 sold by the company General Electric;
the polyorganosiloxane resin sold under the name Dow Corning 593;
polysiloxanes containing amine groups, such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicones.
The surfactants which can be used in the washing and conditioning compositions in accordance with the invention can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants or mixtures thereof with detergent properties.
In the context of the present invention, their nature is not a really critical feature.
The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are, in particular, the following:
(i) Anionic Surfactant(s)
Thus, as examples of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of salts (in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkylarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkyl sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, xcex1-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates; alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates; alkyl sulphosuccinamates; alkyl sulphoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all of these various compounds preferably containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can also be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates in which the acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Use may also be made of alkylpolyglycosides containing a sulphate, sulphonate, succinate or sulphosuccinate group, alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, and polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred according to the invention to use alkyl sulphate and alkyl ether sulphate salts and mixtures thereof.
(ii) Nonionic Surfactant(s)
Nonionic surfactants are likewise compounds that are well known per se (see in particular in this respect xe2x80x9cHandbook of Surfactantsxe2x80x9d by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie and Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178) and, in the context of the present invention, their nature is not a critical feature. Thus, they can be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, alkylphenols, xcex1-diols or alcohols having a fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50 and for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, optionally oxyalkylenated (C8-C20)alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that are particularly suitable in the context of the present invention.
(iii) Amphoteric Surfactant(s)
The amphoteric surfactants, whose nature is not a critical feature in the context of the present invention, can be, in particular (non-limiting list), aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines or (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulphobetaines.
Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and having the structures:
R2xe2x80x94CONHCH2CH2xe2x80x94N(R3)(R4)(CH2COOxe2x80x94)xe2x80x83xe2x80x83(2)
in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R2xe2x80x94COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a xcex2-hydroxyethyl group and R4 denotes a carboxymethyl group; and
R2xe2x80x2xe2x80x94CONHCH2CH2xe2x80x94N(B)(C)xe2x80x83xe2x80x83(3)
in which:
B represents xe2x80x94CH2CH2OXxe2x80x2, C represents xe2x80x94(CH2)zxe2x80x94Yxe2x80x2, with z=1 or 2,
Xxe2x80x2 denotes the xe2x80x94CH2CH2xe2x80x94COOH group or a hydrogen atom,
Yxe2x80x2 denotes xe2x80x94COOH or the xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CHOHxe2x80x94SO3H radical,
R2xe2x80x2 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R9xe2x80x94COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular a C7, C9, C11, or C13 alkyl radical, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 radical.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol C2M concentrate by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc.
In the compositions in accordance with the invention, anionic surfactants are preferably used, and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants with amphoteric or nonionic surfactants. A particularly preferred mixture is a mixture consisting of at least one anionic surfactant with at least one amphoteric surfactant.
The anionic surfactant used is preferably chosen from (C12-C14)alkyl sulphates of sodium, of triethanolamine or of ammonium, the (C12-C14)alkyl ether sulphates of sodium oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium (C14-C16)-xcex1-olefin sulphonate, and mixtures thereof, with:
either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives known as disodium cocoamphodipropionate or sodium cocoamphopropionate, sold in particular by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc under the trade name xe2x80x9cMiranol C2M Conc.xe2x80x9d as an aqueous solution containing 38% active material, or under the name Miranol C32;
or zwitterionic surfactant, such as alkylbetaines, in particular the cocoylbetaine sold under the name xe2x80x9cDehyton AB 30xe2x80x9d as an aqueous solution containing 32% AM by the company Henkel.
The hydrophobic galactomannan gum(s) used in accordance with the invention is (are) preferably present in proportions of between 0.1 and 10% relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular between 0.2 and 5%.
The silicone(s) can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention in proportions generally of between 0.05 and 20%, and preferably between 0.1 and 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The surfactant(s) is (are) generally used in the compositions in accordance with the invention in sufficient proportions to give the composition a detergent nature, these proportions preferably being between 5 and 50% relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular between 8 and 35%.
The vehicle, or support, for the detergent compositions according to the invention is preferably water or an aqueous-alcoholic solution of a lower C1-C6 alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol or a mixture of water and alkylene glycol such as propylene glycol and glycol ethers.
The detergent compositions according to the invention have a final pH generally of between 3 and 10. Preferably, this pH is between 5.5 and 8. Adjustment of the pH to the desired value can be carried out conventionally by adding a base (organic or inorganic) to the composition, for example aqueous ammonia, sodium hydroxide or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by adding an acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as, for example, citric acid.
The compositions in accordance with the invention can contain, in addition to the combination defined above, viscosity modifiers such as electrolytes, or thickeners. Mention may be made in particular of sodium chloride, sodium xylenesulphonate, scleroglucans, xanthan gums, fatty acid alkanolamides, alkanolamides of carboxylic acid alkyl ether optionally oxyethylenated with up to 5 mol of ethylene oxide, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cAminol A15xe2x80x9d by the company Chem Y, crosslinked polyacrylic acids and crosslinked acrylic acid/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers. These viscosity modifiers are used in the compositions according to the invention in proportions which can range up to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions in accordance with the invention can also contain up to 5% of pearlescent agents or opacifiers that are well known in the state of the art, such as, for example, sodium or magnesium palmitate, sodium or magnesium stearate or hydroxystearate, or acyl derivatives with a fatty chain, such as monostearates or distearates of ethylene glycol or of polyethylene glycol and fatty chain ethers such as distearyl ether or 1-hexadecyloxyoctadodecanol.
The compositions in accordance with the invention can also optionally contain other agents whose effect is to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair or the skin. Mention may be made in this respect of cationic surfactants, anionic or nonionic or cationic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, ceramides, pseudoceramides, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol and plant, animal, mineral or synthetic oils, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents and water-soluble or liposoluble sunscreens.
Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of: optionally polyoxyalkylenated salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyl-trialkylammonium, dialkyldihydroalkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives, fatty diesters of dimethyltrihydroxy-ethylammonium; or amine oxides of cationic nature, the alkyl radicals having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
The conditioners of cationic polymer type which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from any of those known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely, in particular, those described in patent application EP-A-0,337,354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
Even more generally, for the purposes of the present invention, the expression xe2x80x9ccationic polymerxe2x80x9d denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
Among all the cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name xe2x80x9cJR 400xe2x80x9d by the company Union Carbide Corporation, cyclopolymers, in particular the dimethyldiallylammonium salt homopolymers and the copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salt and of acrylamide, in particular the chlorides sold under the names xe2x80x9cMerquat 100xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cMerquat 550xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cMerquat Sxe2x80x9d by the company Merck, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold under the name xe2x80x9cJaguar C13Sxe2x80x9d by the company Meyhall.
By way of amphoteric polymer, mention may be made of polymers comprising at least diallyldimethyl- or diallydiethylammonium units and acrylic acid units, such as the products sold under the name Merquat 280 or Merquat 295 by the company Merck;
chitosans partially modified with C4-C8 dicarboxylic acids, such as those described in FR 2,137,684. The degree of modification can be between 30 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the chitosan. These chitosans can be totally deacetylated.
According to the invention, the cationic polymer(s) can represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.
The compositions according to the invention can also contain foam synergists such as C10-C18 1,2-alkanediols or fatty alkanolamides derived from mono- or diethanolamine.
These compositions can also contain various adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics, such as fragrances, preserving agents, sequestering agents and foam stabilizers that are well known in cosmetics.
Needless to say, persons skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amounts thereof, such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the combination (washing base+silicone+guar gum) in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the addition(s) envisaged.
These compositions can be in the form of liquids thickened to a greater or lesser extent, creams or gels and they are mainly suitable for washing and caring for keratin substances such as the skin or the hair.
The compositions according to the invention are preferably used as shampoos for washing and conditioning the hair, and, in this case, they are applied to wet hair in amounts which are efficient to wash it, this application being followed by rinsing with water.
The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be used as shower gels for washing and conditioning the hair and the skin, in which case they are applied to wet skin and hair and are rinsed after application.
The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be used as products for removing make-up from keratin substances such as the skin, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.
A subject of the invention is also a process for washing and conditioning keratin substances such as the hair, which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as defined above to the said wet substances, and then in rinsing with water, after the composition has optionally been left to stand on the said substances for a period of time.
Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples which illustrate the invention will now be given.